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Unveiling the veil of plant extracts

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2024-08-21 18:56:08
Among plant extracts, it is the specific chemical components that really exert their effects. Common plant extracts have the functions of moisturizing and antioxidant.

For the moisturizing effect, there are three main types of ingredients in plants: polysaccharides, phenols, and vegetable oils. Water-soluble ingredients such as polysaccharides and glycosides have sugar groups in their structures, which exhibit good hydration, absorb water and retain moisture through hydrogen bonding. The phenolic hydroxyl structures in flavonoids and polyphenols also bind water through hydrogen bonds, giving them the ability to absorb and retain water. Vegetable oils primarily work by forming a thin layer of oil on the skin to retain moisture and prevent it from drying out.
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Regarding antioxidant effects, there are three main categories of natural antioxidants in plants: phenols, carotenoids, and vitamins. Among them, phenolic compounds in a broad sense refer to a type of aromatic compounds in which the hydrogen on the aromatic hydrocarbon ring is replaced by a hydroxyl group, including not only polyphenols and phenolic acids, but also compounds containing phenolic hydroxyl structures such as flavonoids and stilbenes. The potential antioxidant capacity of plant raw materials mainly depends on the type and content of phenolic compounds in the plant or its extract. In addition, there is a synergistic effect of some polyphenols and/or other antioxidant components in certain plants or their extracts, resulting in powerful antioxidant activity.Today, plant extracts have become a source of inspiration for scientific research in cosmetics. After the components of the extract are identified, some functional molecules are isolated separately and used as cosmetic raw materials. Many functional molecules that are popular on the market are derived from plants, such as salicylic acid from willow, resveratrol from knotweed and grapes, astaxanthin from algae, etc.
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In the specific production process, the effects of plant extracts also depend on their extraction parts, extraction processes, etc. The extraction products obtained through different parts and processes may be hugely different. For example, in one study (Vieira et al., 2020), walnut leaves were extracted using alkanediol and glycerol, respectively, and the results showed that extracts prepared using 1,2-propanediol and 1,3-propanediol had the highest functional activity. However, there are currently no regulations requiring plant extract products to declare functional ingredients and precise contents. Therefore, this has also become a means for some well-known raw material manufacturers or cosmetics companies to protect technical secrets. Even if competitors know the source of the plants, it is difficult to produce products with exactly the same efficacy. product.


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